DIY & How to: Difference between revisions
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Select items:<br/> |
Select items:<br/> |
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[http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14786 Alternative MAP sensor] |
[http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14786 Alternative MAP sensor] <br/> |
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[http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15199 Bumper Wiring Conversion] |
[http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15199 Bumper Wiring Conversion] |
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'''DIY Items''' |
'''DIY Items''' |
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[[#Airbox Removal]]<br/> |
[[#Airbox Removal]]<br/> |
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[[#Next2]]<br/> |
[[#Next2]]<br/> |
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[[#Next3]]<br/> |
[[#Next3]]<br/> |
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<div id="Key Coding">Ignition Key Coding</div> |
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''The key is supposed to contain non-volatile memory but mine had dumped the rolling code following a prolonged period of storage and would not operate the C/L, after slicing open the key with a scalpel, replacing the battery and gluing back together I used the following procedure to re-code...'' |
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To be carried out from inside the vehicle. |
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Unlock the car C/L using functioning key, enter the vehicle and close both doors. |
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1) Turn on vehicle power with new key(for less than 5 secs) and switch off. |
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2) Press and HOLD the "unlock" button |
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(Keep key in vicinity of antenna/lock) |
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3) Press the "lock" button three times(within 10 secs) |
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-> a new key code is generated... |
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4) Release both buttons simultaneously. |
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If this procedure has been successful the C/L will lock and unlock once automatically. |
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Remove electrical connectors from the airbox one on flap and one on the opposite side. To do this you squeeze the metal spring clip inwards and once fully pressed as far in as it will go, give a gentle tug👍. |
Remove electrical connectors from the airbox one on flap and one on the opposite side. To do this you squeeze the metal spring clip inwards and once fully pressed as far in as it will go, give a gentle tug👍. |
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Un-clip breather hose from the part of the airbox you are going to remove (this is just squeeze together and pull) |
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Now remove strut brace, as you won’t need to lean on it any more (13mm socket). |
Now remove strut brace, as you won’t need to lean on it any more (13mm socket). |
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And then all will be revealed: (you can also get to the dipstick and check the oil - it requires a good tug to pop it out AND a firm push to click it back in). |
And then all will be revealed: (you can also get to the dipstick and check the oil - it requires a good tug to pop it out AND a firm push to click it back in). |
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Installation is just the reverse of the above. |
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<div id="Next1">Next...</div> |
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<div id="Next2">Next...</div> |
<div id="Next2">Next...</div> |
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Latest revision as of 15:28, 11 July 2022
Currently the major technical reference area for all things CSL is HERE on the CSL Register.
Select items:
Alternative MAP sensor
Bumper Wiring Conversion
DIY Items
#Key Coding
#Airbox Removal
#Next2
#Next3
Ignition Key Coding
The key is supposed to contain non-volatile memory but mine had dumped the rolling code following a prolonged period of storage and would not operate the C/L, after slicing open the key with a scalpel, replacing the battery and gluing back together I used the following procedure to re-code...
To be carried out from inside the vehicle.
Unlock the car C/L using functioning key, enter the vehicle and close both doors.
1) Turn on vehicle power with new key(for less than 5 secs) and switch off.
2) Press and HOLD the "unlock" button (Keep key in vicinity of antenna/lock)
3) Press the "lock" button three times(within 10 secs) -> a new key code is generated...
4) Release both buttons simultaneously.
If this procedure has been successful the C/L will lock and unlock once automatically.
Airbox (Outer part) Removal
For air filter change or manual oil dipstick access
For those that have never done this, it really is easy:
Leave the strut brace on for now, as it is something to lean on. Twist the spring loaded clips on the cover of the cabin filter so they pop up.
Lift up and slide out from under the back rubber (may need a little tug, as the rubber grips it).
Lift up and slide out the cabin filter.
This will then reveal four T30 torx head screws along the back.
Remove those (being careful not to drop the outer two down the drainage holes😛).
Unclip front of cable tray cover and remove. Pull cables out of the tray.
Lift up and pull the cabin filter housing out of the out of the way.
Remove electrical connectors from the airbox one on flap and one on the opposite side. To do this you squeeze the metal spring clip inwards and once fully pressed as far in as it will go, give a gentle tug👍.
Un-clip breather hose from the part of the airbox you are going to remove (this is just squeeze together and pull)
Now remove strut brace, as you won’t need to lean on it any more (13mm socket).
Unscrew the four T25 torx on top of the airbox.
Everything is now ready to come apart. The airbox has to be lifted up as there are location pins on the bottom.
Be careful not to scratch it on the wires at the back and also I found it easier to move the SMG reservoir out of the way (just pull upwards and tie it with string so it is out of the way and is not hanging upside down (as the lids leak🤣).
You will then see the air filter that is obvious on how to remove.
And then all will be revealed: (you can also get to the dipstick and check the oil - it requires a good tug to pop it out AND a firm push to click it back in).
Installation is just the reverse of the above.
Next...
Next...
